How to Recover Data From Formatted WD My Passport July 17, 2015 There are certain situations when photographers need to connect their single external hard drive to multiple operating systems. Most of the times, professional photographers need to do this as they usually store their photo collection in external drive.
On the other hand, a particulate type of operating system follows a single file format to store data in an internal or external hard drive. For example, if we talk about Windows users, then the file system should be NTFS, similarly with Mac owners it should be HFS. Usually, both the formats are not compatible with each other, therefore when it comes to external hard drive, the user cannot use one storage drive on both the platforms. But this time, Western digital has introduced a range of portable hard drives named ', which are designed for both Mac and Windows systems. These are shipped in preformatted or in the NTFS (Windows) or HFS+ (Mac) format.
In order to use the same drive on both the platforms, you need to format or reformat it using exFAT or FAT32 (DOS) format. You have not take Backup before Formaating? You formatted your hard disk and afterwards you discover that you need some important data which were present in your Hard Disk. If you have a data backup in some other location then it is fine but if you have missed out your routine backup plan and suffered from data loss then recovery software is the only solution to retrieve back data from your formatted hard drive.
In Case of Mac System: Download to recover back data from your formatted hard drive. Step 1 Connect your external hard disk to Mac OS X system Step 2 Select the Stellar Phoenix Mac data recovery icon to launch the software Step 3 Click on the Start Scan button and go to the menu Step 4 Here, select your external hard drive. You will see a list of methods available.
Select the desired recovery option and click on the ‘Start Scan' option to proceed. Step 5 After scanning the formatted external hard drive, it lists out all the files that can be recovered. You can select the needed files and select recover to recover back all the files. In Case of Windows System: Download to recover data from your formatted Hard Drive. Step 1: Run the software Step 2: Under the ‘Data Recovery Tab, click on Drive Recovery. The formatted drive will be listed under ‘Drive Recovery‘.
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If it is not showing up then try to connect it externally using SATA/USB connector or directly into the motherboard. Step 3: Next, click on the formatted drive partition to select it. Once selected, you will get to see all data recovery options on the right hand side of the screen. Select the ‘Advanced Recovery’ and the suitable file system. (NTFS or FAT) If you are looking for the lost or deleted hard drive partition, select the option ‘Select Hard Drive to Search Lost Volumes ‘under the same ‘Drive Recovery’ tab. Step 4: You will be able to see the scanning process in the next step and all the missing or deleted files on the screen.
Once scanning process is complete, a list of deleted files and folders is displayed on the screen. For recovery, you need to click on the check box to select the files for recovery. Step 5 After you click on the recover option, all the selected images will be recovered to the desired location.
FWIW on hard drive reliability, I'm not overly convinced that any manufacturer really is any worse than any others. You do get an occasional model that seems to be notorious for failing (one of Seagate's early 7200 rpm desktop drives was notorious for that, and lately I've had a lot of one particular model Maxtor desktop drive fail, including 3 in one week a few weeks ago). And regardless of what you research, you'll always find someone that's not happy with it.
Personally, I'm kinda partial to Seagate's myself, unless I've seen that it's a model known for causing problems. That said, the couple of small portable external drives I have right now are WD, because the price was right when I bought them. Just my 2c.I recently bought (3) each of the Toshiba 320 Gb (HDDR320E03X) 2 1/2' USB portables and the competitive Western Digital 320 Gb My Passport Essentials. Both ran fine with a single USB connection over normally powered ports and came with sync software which was immediately formatted over. The Toshiba's are lighter, a tad faster on my benchmarks and in a sexier package but I had a major problem with all three. After little use each of the mini-usb connectors became very loose (.
Let's just remember that these are not reliable long-term backup solutions. I bought another SimpleTech over the weekend for another disk clone operation. These things get very hot, suggesting short MTBFs. I now have six of these and two Maxtors. One Simpletech failed at the mini-usb port, but only for power. I connected an external power supply and it works fine for data transfer.
I do have four of the powered 3.5' Iomega drives, and these are clearly better built, at least in terms of their case. Guys, don't think of these portable USB drives in any way as archival storage.
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In fact, that opens a whole other discussion area as to just what people do think is going to be reasonable long term archival storage. I went way out of my way, spent more money, and sacrificed capacity to get a 1.8' portable hard drive instead of a 2.5', one of the reasons being so many of the 2.5' USB drives to requires two USB ports instead of just one because the draw more power. The 1.8” drives draw quite a bit less power then the 2.5” drives which helps with the uptime on laptop batteries. I picked mine up from newegg (Cirago brand, about $70 for a 60gb drive). It’s literally about 1/3 of the volume of my old WD 2.5” portable and it weighs nothing. As a frequent flyers, space and weight are always a concern for me with everything I put into my bags. For the more technoheads inside the Cirago portable drive was a Hitachi TravelStar C4K60 (HTC42606) which is the same drive that is used on the much more expensive Aegis Mini.
To give you an idea of the size, it’s a little longer then my Blackberry Curve by about 5-7mm. It’s about the same width as the curve and is a couple of mm thinner (maybe 2-3mm). It really is tiny for a portable drive. Let's just remember that these are not reliable long-term backup solutions.Guys, don't think of these portable USB drives in any way as archival storage.
In fact, that opens a whole other discussion area as to just what people do think is going to be reasonable long term archival storage. And I would be interested to hear that, as that will be what I'm looking for first. BTW, thanks to all for the response to my original query; it was very helpful. An Iomega eGo was delivered today, and I've just copied my documents, music and photos. The drive came preformatted for NTFS, so all I had to do was plug and go, and it worked fine in the USB port where I'd had problems with a couple of other peripherals.
Too early to say it's idiot proof, but it's certainly simple. I have more than 2G of data as I want to be able to transfer all my photo files and music (now in iTunes). For the synching, I think I would prefer to do that manually rather than wrestle with yet another software 'manager'.
I want to synch my bookmarks, Outlook contacts, mail and calendar, but I may not always need to transfer all my files and settings from one computer to the other (although it's probably easier to update all My Documents than to cherry-pick). The main problem is that it must be idiot-proof (me being the idiot). I've been looking at installation and user manuals, and I'm already uncomfortable about having to change the format to NTFS. Also, all the user manuals seem to assume that you'll use their software: they only really provide instructions for installation and, perhaps, some trouble-shooting. At the moment, I'm most interested in the LaCie Rugged and the Iomego Ego Camo (hate the looks of it), but it's interesting that those two actually offer the shortest warranties (2 and 1 years, respectively).If all you have to sync is what you mention above, I'd consider an online sync solution.
I regularly work with documents and photos across two machines and use Dropbox, which is free up to 2 gigs. Still in beta but I can send you an invite if you'd like. My first PC was a Timex Sinclair ZX80, a Z80-based machine that cost $89 or so and came with 4K of RAM (I sprung for the 16K expansion). It used an audio cassette deck for program and data storage and clocked at 1K (that's not a typo). My second and third PCs were Commodore 64s that I bought at Toys 'R Us (that's where they were sold). These used a dedicated cassette deck for data storage, but also had optional 5-1/4' 360k floppy drives.
For the time, they were very nice machines and I was able to do quite a lot with them (this was in the days of the Radio Shack TRS-80). My fourth PC was an IBM PC XT. It had a 20 megabyte internal hard drive (I thought I'd never be able to fill it up), and came with 64k of RAM, expandable to 512k with a full-length third-party memory card.
It also had a 5-1/4' 360k floppy drive, though I quickly replaced that with the new, high-capacity 1.2 meg 5-1/4' drives. This machine cost me just under $2,000. I was amazed by how fast it was compared to the Commodore 64s. As for USB drives, I just bought a nifty 320 meg portable drive from WD for around $120. I also got a nice USB/eSata case and dropped an extra 100 meg eSata drive into it. This puppy is like lightning on an eSata transfer. I get sustained transferred rates of between 2.7 and 2.8 gigabytes - I backed up my 100 gig laptop in about 40 minutes.